Planning Two Weeks Through the Subcontinent
India is the trip that requires the most planning and delivers the most reward. The scale, the sensory intensity, the food, the architecture, the history — nothing else comes close. We are planning a two-week route through northern and southern India, hitting the Golden Triangle (Delhi, Agra, Jaipur), extending into Rajasthan, and finishing with the backwaters of Kerala. December to February is the ideal window: clear skies, comfortable temperatures, and the best conditions for sightseeing.
Delhi: Old and New
Delhi is where most international flights land and where the cultural whiplash begins. Old Delhi and New Delhi feel like different centuries existing in the same space.
Old Delhi: The Red Fort, Jama Masjid (one of the largest mosques in India), and the narrow lanes of Chandni Chowk form the Mughal-era heart of the city. Chandni Chowk is sensory overload — rickshaws, street food vendors, spice markets, and fabric shops packed into impossibly narrow streets. The street food here (parathas at Paranthe Wali Gali, chaat at every corner) is extraordinary.
New Delhi: Humayun’s Tomb is a stunning precursor to the Taj Mahal and usually far less crowded. India Gate, the Parliament buildings, and the Lotus Temple are the modern landmarks. The Lodhi Art District has street art murals spread across an entire neighborhood.
Two days gives you a solid introduction before moving south.
Agra: The Taj Mahal
The train from Delhi to Agra takes about two hours on the Gatimaan Express. The Taj Mahal is one of those rare landmarks that exceeds expectations. The white marble changes color throughout the day — pink at dawn, white at midday, golden at sunset. Go at sunrise for the smallest crowds and the most magical light.
Agra Fort, a massive red sandstone fortress overlooking the Yamuna River, is the other must-see. From the fort, you can see the Taj Mahal in the distance — Shah Jahan was imprisoned here by his son and spent his final years gazing at the tomb he built for his wife.
One night in Agra is sufficient. The city itself is not particularly charming beyond the monuments.
Jaipur: The Pink City
Jaipur completes the Golden Triangle and is arguably the most enjoyable of the three cities for wandering. The old city is painted in its signature terracotta pink, and the architecture is stunning.
Amber Fort: A massive hilltop fortress with mirror-work halls, ornate courtyards, and views across the surrounding hills. It is Jaipur’s most impressive monument.
Hawa Mahal: The Palace of Winds, with its honeycomb facade of 953 windows, is the most photographed building in Rajasthan. The City Palace complex in the center of the old city is still partly inhabited by the royal family.
Bazaars: Jaipur’s markets are famous for textiles, jewelry, and block-printed fabrics. Johari Bazaar and Bapu Bazaar are the main shopping streets. Bargain hard — the first price quoted is usually 3-4 times the expected sale price.
Rajasthan: Beyond the Golden Triangle
If time allows, extending into deeper Rajasthan is incredibly rewarding:
Udaipur: The “Venice of the East” — a city built around lakes with white marble palaces reflected in the water. The City Palace is enormous and the Lake Pichola boat ride at sunset is unforgettable.
Jodhpur: The “Blue City” — the old town is painted in shades of blue, best seen from the massive Mehrangarh Fort perched on a clifftop above. The fort is one of the most impressive in India.
Jaisalmer: A living fort city in the Thar Desert. The sandstone fort glows golden at sunset, and camel safaris into the desert dunes are the signature experience.
Kerala: Backwaters and Beaches
Flying south to Kerala (about 3 hours from Delhi or Jaipur to Kochi) takes you to a completely different India — lush, tropical, and laid-back.
Kochi (Cochin): A port city with Portuguese, Dutch, and British colonial layers. Fort Kochi has charming streets, Chinese fishing nets along the waterfront, and excellent seafood restaurants.
The Backwaters: A houseboat cruise through the Kerala backwaters is the highlight. Converted rice barges float through a network of canals, lakes, and rivers lined with palm trees and small villages. One-night cruises from Alleppey are the classic option, costing 100-250 USD depending on the boat.
Munnar: Hill station in the Western Ghats surrounded by tea plantations. The cool mountain air is a relief after the plains, and the views of rolling green hills covered in tea bushes are stunning.
Budget Estimate
India is extremely affordable once you arrive:
- Flights: JFK to Delhi round trip — 60,000-80,000 miles or 700-1,000 USD
- Internal flights: Delhi-Kochi about 50-100 USD on IndiGo or SpiceJet
- Trains: Delhi-Agra 15-25 USD, Agra-Jaipur 10-20 USD on air-conditioned classes
- Hotels: Excellent options from 30-80 USD per night. Heritage hotels (converted palaces) in Rajasthan from 80-200 USD
- Food: Street food meals under 2 USD. Restaurant meals 5-15 USD for two
- Kerala houseboat: 100-250 USD per night including meals
- Guides and entrance fees: Taj Mahal 1,300 INR (about 16 USD) for foreigners. Hiring a local guide adds 15-30 USD per site
India Travel Tips
- December-February is the best time for North India (cool and dry). Kerala is pleasant year-round but October-March is ideal
- Get an e-visa before departure — available online for most nationalities
- Book trains on the IRCTC website well in advance. Popular routes sell out weeks ahead
- Drink only bottled or filtered water. Avoid ice in drinks outside upscale restaurants
- Hire a driver for Rajasthan — driving yourself is not recommended. A driver costs about 30-50 USD per day
- Dress modestly at temples and mosques. Remove shoes before entering
- Bargaining is expected at markets. Be firm but friendly
- India will challenge you and reward you in equal measure. Go with patience and an open mind