Eleven Hours Through the North Island
We paid $303 for two seats on the Northern Explorer from Wellington to Auckland, and by hour three I had already decided it was one of the best travel days of the entire New Zealand trip.
In This Post
Most people fly between Wellington and Auckland. It takes an hour, costs maybe $80-120 NZD, and you see clouds. The Northern Explorer takes eleven hours and covers 681 kilometers of track through volcanic plateaus, river gorges, and beech forests. It runs three times a week in each direction, and it is not a commuter train — it exists entirely for the scenery.
We took it on November 1, heading north after three nights in Wellington. Check-in opened at 7:15am at Counter 6 in Wellington Station, and they wanted a printed booking confirmation to exchange for boarding passes. The train was maybe two-thirds full, which meant we could spread out.
Boarding at Wellington Station
Wellington Station is central and easy to find. The Northern Explorer platform is separate from the commuter trains — follow the signs. The staff are relaxed and friendly in that particular New Zealand way where nothing feels rushed but everything runs on time. They pointed us to our carriage and we settled in.
The seats face forward with large windows. Not panoramic like some European scenic trains, but big enough that you do not feel like you are peering through a porthole. The open-air viewing car at the back of the train is the real draw — an outdoor platform with railings where you can stand in the wind and shoot photos without glass glare. We spent about a third of the trip out there.
The Route: What You See
The first couple of hours heading north from Wellington are pleasant but not dramatic — farmland, small towns, the Kapiti Coast. The GPS-triggered commentary (piped through headphones at your seat, available in five languages) gives context on what you are passing, though we turned it off after a while and just watched.
The landscape changes around Ohakune, when the train starts climbing toward the volcanic plateau. This is where you understand why the journey exists. Three volcanoes — Tongariro, Ngauruhoe (Mount Doom from Lord of the Rings, which we had just done the half-day LOTR tour of two days earlier in Wellington), and Ruapehu — sit in the middle distance. On a clear day the snowcapped peaks against the green plateau are extraordinary. We got lucky with weather.
The Raurimu Spiral is the engineering highlight — an 1898 solution to gaining 139 meters of elevation where the terrain would not cooperate. The train loops, spirals, and zigzags through tunnels and horseshoe curves. You can see the track you were just on below you. The commentary is worth turning back on for this section.
After the volcanic plateau the route drops into the Waikato region — more pastoral, gentler, with river gorges and long stretches where the only evidence of civilization is the occasional farm track crossing. The train stops at a few small stations (National Park, Hamilton) where a handful of passengers get on or off.
Scenic vs Scenic Plus
Two classes. Scenic is the standard — comfortable seats, access to the viewing car, a cafe car where you can buy food and drinks. Scenic Plus includes meals at your seat (lunch and afternoon tea), complimentary wine, beer, and coffee, and a dedicated host. The food is seasonal New Zealand cuisine, not airline food.
We did Scenic Plus and it was the right call. Eleven hours is a long time, and having food brought to you while you stare at volcanoes beats queueing at the cafe car. The wine was decent. The lunch was better than it needed to be.
If you are on a tight budget, Scenic is fine — bring your own snacks and a water bottle. The viewing car and the scenery are identical in both classes.
Practical Details
- Schedule: Three times a week in each direction. Northbound (Wellington to Auckland) runs Monday, Thursday, Saturday. Check Great Journeys NZ for current timetable
- Duration: About 11 hours. Departs Wellington around 7:55am, arrives Auckland Strand Station around 6:45pm
- Price: We paid $303 NZD total for two Scenic Plus tickets in November 2023. Book via the Great Journeys NZ website or through Klook
- Best side: Right side heading northbound for the volcanic plateau views. Left side is better for some of the gorge and viaduct sections
- What to bring: A book (you will not read it), a camera, layers (the viewing car is windy), and a charger (outlets at every seat)
- Auckland arrival: Auckland Strand Station is central. We checked into the Four Points by Marriott and had dinner along the waterfront
- No service Dec 23 to Jan 13 — if you are traveling over Christmas/New Year, this is not an option
Is It Worth the Day?
If your only goal is getting from Wellington to Auckland, fly. It is faster and often cheaper. But if you have a day to spare and you want one of the most scenic train rides in the world, the Northern Explorer earns that label honestly. The volcanic plateau section alone — maybe 90 minutes of the journey — would be worth the price. The rest is a bonus.
We arrived in Auckland at dusk, checked into the Four Points, and walked along the harbor to find dinner. Mara said she would do it again. I agreed but admitted I would probably fall asleep for the Waikato section. (She claimed I already had.)
Related Reading
- New Zealand in Spring: Wellington, Auckland, and the Northern Explorer
- Japan: Two Weeks of Temples, Ramen, and Perfect Trains
Book Your Trip
- Northern Explorer tickets on Klook
- Wellington tours on Viator
- Hobbiton Tour from Auckland on GetYourGuide
Compare flights on Skyscanner — and grab an Airalo eSIM before you land so you have data the moment you arrive.
Travel Insurance: We use SafetyWing for travel insurance. Covers medical, trip interruption, and lost luggage from $45/month.
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Frequently Asked Questions
How long is the Northern Explorer train?
About 11 hours from Wellington to Auckland (or vice versa), covering 681 kilometers. It departs Wellington around 7:55am and arrives Auckland around 6:45pm.
Is the Northern Explorer worth it vs flying?
If speed is your priority, fly. But if you have a full day and want one of the best scenic train rides in the world — volcanic plateaus, river gorges, the Raurimu Spiral — the Northern Explorer is worth every hour. The Scenic Plus class includes meals and drinks.
Which side should I sit on?
Right side heading northbound (Wellington to Auckland) for the best volcanic plateau views. But the open-air viewing car at the back lets you see everything regardless of your seat assignment.
Need a rental car? Compare prices on RentCars for the best deals in New Zealand.
Book hotels: Search Wellington hotels on Booking.com
Written by Jenna Fattah
I have visited 25+ countries across 6 continents, attended 7 Formula 1 races, and spent 4 years writing about what actually works and what I would do differently. Every recommendation on this site comes from trips I planned and paid for myself. Read more about me