Mexico City: The Most Underrated Food Capital in the World
Mexico City broke every expectation we had. We came for the tacos and stayed for everything else — world-class museums, neighborhoods that feel like different cities, and a food scene that rivals anywhere on earth at a fraction of the cost. Five days felt right. Here is what we did.
Roma and Condesa
These two neighborhoods are where most visitors base themselves, and for good reason. Tree-lined streets, art deco architecture, independent coffee shops, and restaurants on every block. Roma Norte is slightly grittier and has better street food. Condesa is leafier and more residential. We stayed in Roma Norte and walked to Condesa daily — they share a border along Avenida Insurgentes.
Contramar in Roma is the restaurant everyone talks about, and it deserves the hype. The tuna tostadas and the green-and-red grilled fish are the signatures. Go for a late lunch (2 PM) when the crowd thins. No reservations — just show up and wait.
Historic Center and Chapultepec
The Zocalo (main plaza) is one of the largest public squares in the world. The Palacio Nacional on the east side has Diego Rivera murals covering the entire history of Mexico across three floors — it is free to enter and genuinely stunning. The Templo Mayor next door is the excavated remains of the Aztec capital Tenochtitlan, which was literally buried under the Spanish colonial city.
The Museo Nacional de Antropologia in Chapultepec Park is the best museum in Latin America. The Aztec Sun Stone, the Mayan jade mask of Pakal, the Olmec colossal heads — allocate at least three hours. The museum is closed on Mondays.
Street Food
Tacos al pastor from a street stand with a proper trompo (vertical spit) are a religious experience. The best ones shave thin slices of pork, top them with a slice of pineapple cut from the top of the spit, and serve them on small corn tortillas with cilantro and salsa verde. We ate these daily, sometimes twice.
Tamales from a morning street vendor wrapped in banana leaf. Elote (grilled corn) with mayo, cotija cheese, chili, and lime from a cart. Tlacoyos (stuffed masa cakes) at the Coyoacan market. The street food alone is worth the trip, and a full meal rarely costs more than $3-4.
Coyoacan and Xochimilco
Coyoacan is a colonial-era neighborhood south of the center where Frida Kahlo lived. The Casa Azul (Blue House) museum is small but powerful — seeing her actual studio and the house where she and Diego Rivera lived makes the art personal. Book tickets online in advance; they sell out.
Xochimilco is the floating gardens — colorful boats called trajineras that cruise ancient Aztec canals. Go on a weekday to avoid the party-boat crowds. Bring your own food and drinks (vendors on boats charge double). The canals with floating gardens and bird sanctuaries are genuinely beautiful and unlike anything else we have done.
Safety
We felt safe in Roma, Condesa, Coyoacan, Polanco, and the Historic Center during the day. Use Uber or Didi instead of street taxis. Do not flash expensive cameras or jewelry in crowded areas. These are the same precautions you would take in any major city. Mexico City’s reputation is worse than the reality for tourists who stay in the main neighborhoods.
Gear and Guides We Recommend
These are things we actually use and recommend. Some links below are affiliate links, which means we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.
- Osprey Farpoint 40L Travel Backpack — the only bag you need for two weeks anywhere
- Anker Nano Power Bank — saved us dozens of times when phones died mid-navigation
- eSIM International Data — skip the SIM card hunt at the airport
- Peak Design Packing Cubes — actually worth the hype for organizing