The $22 ferry from Sorrento to Capri takes 20 minutes, and the island is worth it even if you only go for the afternoon.
In This Post
I’d been to Italy a few times before this trip, always staying on the mainland. Capri kept coming up in conversation the way places do when people want to sound sophisticated about their vacations. I finally went. Here’s what actually matters.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the Amalfi Coast worth visiting?
Yes, but go in shoulder season (May or late September). Summer is brutally crowded and expensive. The coastal drive is stunning, Ravello is the hidden star, and Capri is worth one full day despite the tourist prices.
How do you get to Capri from Naples?
Take the fast ferry (hydrofoil) from Naples Molo Beverello, about 45 minutes and around 22 euros each way. The Sorrento ferry is shorter (20 minutes) if you are already on the coast. Book the first morning boat to avoid crowds.
Is the Blue Grotto worth it?
Yes, if you go early. The Blue Grotto at Capri costs about 22 euros and is cash only. The rowboat ride inside is quick but the color is genuinely otherworldly. Skip it if the sea is rough, as they close the entrance.
What the Amalfi Coast Cost (Two People, 5 Days)
Here is what we actually spent (or what you should budget), based on our trip:
| Category | Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Flights (to Naples) | $400-700 | Via Rome or direct seasonal |
| Hotels | $180-350/night | Positano and Capri are priciest |
| Ferries | $18-25/crossing | Naples-Capri, Capri-Positano |
| Blue Grotto entry | $22 | Cash only, worth it early morning |
| Food | $60-100/day | Seafood restaurants, limoncello everywhere |
| Boat tours | $80-150 | Private vs group around Capri |
| Pompeii entry | $18 | Book skip-the-line |
| Total | $2,500-4,000 | Per couple, 5 days. Capri is the splurge. |
Prices are approximate and based on 2024-2025 travel. Book flights 2-3 months ahead for the best rates.
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The Details That Made This Trip Unique
The Blue Grotto on Capri has been a tourist attraction since 1826, when two German tourists “rediscovered” it — the locals had known about it for centuries but avoided it because of superstitions about witches living inside. The effect happens because sunlight enters through an underwater opening and refracts through the water, turning everything an electric blue. But the grotto is only accessible when the sea is calm enough for the small rowboats to duck under the one-meter-high entrance. We got in on our first attempt — something the boatmen told us happens only about 60% of the time in peak season.
The Amalfi Coast road (SS163) was built in the early 1800s and has barely been widened since. The engineering is wild — it clings to cliffs that drop hundreds of meters straight into the sea, and in several places the road passes through natural rock arches that were carved by hand. The SITA buses that run the route use mirrors mounted on cliff faces at blind turns, and the drivers honk before every curve. After a few rides, you realize the honking is a precise communication system, not random chaos.
Positano was a poor fishing village until John Steinbeck wrote about it in Harper’s Bazaar in 1953. His essay, which called it “a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone,” turned it into a celebrity destination almost overnight. The vertical architecture — houses stacked up the cliff — exists because land was scarce and fishermen built upward. It was not designed to be picturesque; it was designed out of necessity, which is probably why it works.
Related Reading
Planning a broader Italy trip? Italy by Train: How to Actually Get Around Without Losing Your Mind covers the rail network, how to book tickets without getting ripped off, and which routes are worth the scenic upgrade.
Gear
What I’d bring specifically for this trip:
- Amalfi Coast travel guide (Rick Steves) — still the most practical printed guide for this region. Better than trying to navigate review apps on a cliff road.
- Osprey Daylite 13L day bag — light enough for all-day walking in heat, enough room for a layer, water, camera, and a market haul.
- Waterproof phone case with lanyard — necessary for the Blue Grotto boat ride, and useful for any beach or boat day along the coast.
- EltaMD UV Clear sunscreen SPF 46 — the sun on the water reflects hard. This is what I use. It doesn’t leave a white cast.
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Compare flights on Skyscanner — and grab an Airalo eSIM before you land so you have data the moment you arrive.
Plan Your Trip
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- Browse tours and activities on GetYourGuide
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Written by Jenna Fattah
I have visited 25+ countries across 6 continents, attended 7 Formula 1 races, and spent 4 years writing about what actually works and what I would do differently. Every recommendation on this site comes from trips I planned and paid for myself. Read more about me