Ten Days From Avignon to Paris Through Lavender Fields and Hilltop Villages
If you are going to visit Provence, go during lavender season. The fields peak in mid-to-late June, and driving through them with the windows down is one of those travel moments that actually lives up to the hype. We spent ten days in the south of France and Paris in June 2024, renting a car in Avignon and slowly working our way through the countryside before finishing with a few days in Paris.
Getting There: Fly to Paris, Train to Avignon
We flew American Airlines from JFK to Paris CDG, then caught the TGV down to Avignon. The high-speed train takes about 2 hours and 40 minutes and drops you right in the heart of Provence, saving at least three hours compared to driving from Paris. We rented a car from the Avignon TGV station, which turned out to be the right call — Provence is a driving destination, and public transport between the small villages is limited.
Car rental ran about 50-60 euros per day. Gas stations are easy to find, and the roads through the countryside are scenic and well-maintained. Just be prepared for narrow streets in the hilltop villages.
Avignon: The Palais des Papes and Jardin des Doms
We spent our first evening on a walking tour of Avignon. The Palais des Papes gets most of the attention, and it is genuinely impressive — one of the largest Gothic buildings in Europe. But the real find was the Jardin des Doms, a hilltop garden above the palace with panoramic views of the Rhone River and Mont Ventoux in the distance. It is free, uncrowded, and perfect for watching the sunset.
Avignon’s old town is walkable and has good restaurants along the side streets away from the main square. We found better food (and lower prices) by wandering a few blocks off Place de l’Horloge.
The Lavender Fields: Senanque Abbey and the Valensole Plateau
The lavender was the whole reason for the timing of this trip, and it delivered. Our first stop was the Senanque Abbey, a 12th-century Cistercian monastery surrounded by lavender fields. It is the most photographed lavender spot in Provence for good reason, but it does get crowded by mid-morning. We arrived around 8 AM and had the fields nearly to ourselves.
The larger fields on the Valensole Plateau are equally stunning and feel more expansive. You can pull over almost anywhere along the D6 and D8 roads and walk into the fields. The smell is overwhelming in the best way, and the bees are everywhere but harmless. Late June is peak bloom — by mid-July the harvest starts and the fields are cut.
Fontaine-de-Vaucluse and the Hilltop Villages
Fontaine-de-Vaucluse is built around a natural spring where crystal-clear water bubbles up from underground caves. The hike up to the source takes you through lush forest with views of limestone cliffs, and photos really do not capture how vivid the water color is. Go early before the tour buses arrive.
Gordes gets called one of the most beautiful villages in France, and the view approaching it from the valley is postcard-perfect. But we actually preferred nearby Roussillon, with its ochre-colored buildings and quieter streets. Both are worth a stop, and they are only about 20 minutes apart by car.
Les Baux-de-Provence sits on a dramatic rocky outcrop with castle ruins and sweeping views. We skipped the crowded castle interior and explored the Val d’Enfer (Valley of Hell) instead — strange eroded rock formations that supposedly inspired Dante. The Carrieres des Lumieres nearby is an immersive art projection show inside an old quarry. It rotates exhibitions, and even if you are not usually into digital art, the scale of the space makes it worth seeing.
The Calanques and Cassis
South of Aix-en-Provence, the coastline breaks into the Calanques — narrow, fjord-like inlets with turquoise water and white limestone cliffs. We hiked into Calanque d’En-Vau, which took about 90 minutes each way on a rocky trail. Bring proper shoes, plenty of water, and be prepared for the return hike to feel twice as long in the afternoon heat.
Cassis, the small port town at the western edge of the Calanques, is a great base for this. The harbor is lined with seafood restaurants, and you can also take a boat tour of the Calanques if hiking is not your thing (about 25-30 euros per person for a 90-minute tour).
Aix-en-Provence: Markets and Cezanne
Aix is the cultural capital of Provence and has a more urban, cosmopolitan feel than the villages. The Saturday morning market on Cours Mirabeau is excellent — local produce, cheese, olives, and lavender products. We walked the Cezanne trail through town, which connects spots where the painter lived and worked, ending at his studio on the hill above the old town.
The food scene in Aix is strong. We had some of our best meals of the trip here, particularly the Provencal classics like ratatouille, bouillabaisse, and anything involving local olive oil and fresh herbs.
Paris: Beyond the Tourist Trail
After a week in Provence, we dropped the car and trained back to Paris for the final stretch. We deliberately skipped the major landmarks (having done them on previous trips) and focused on neighborhoods and smaller museums.
The Petit Palais is free and houses an impressive art collection in a gorgeous Beaux-Arts building — somehow it gets a fraction of the visitors that the Grand Palais across the street attracts. Le Marais remains one of the best neighborhoods for wandering, eating, and shopping. We found a Middle Eastern ice cream shop called Asha that might have been the best dessert of the entire trip.
We dedicated a full day to vintage shopping in the 19th and 20th arrondissements — Rue de la Villette and Rue de Menilmontant have great shops with far fewer tourists than the Marais vintage stores. The Jardin du Palais Royal is another hidden favorite: a peaceful courtyard garden right in the center of the city that most visitors walk right past.
What It Cost
- Flights: JFK to Paris CDG round trip on American Airlines, booked with miles (around 50,000 miles per person in economy)
- TGV Paris-Avignon: About 40-80 euros each way depending on how far ahead you book
- Car rental: 50-60 euros per day, roughly 400 euros total for 7 days
- Hotels in Provence: 100-150 euros per night for mid-range options
- Hotels in Paris: 150-200 euros per night (Marriott points covered one of our nights)
- Food: 50-70 euros per day for two people eating well, including wine
- Activities: Most villages and gardens are free; Carrieres des Lumieres is about 16 euros
Tips for Planning Your Own Provence Road Trip
- Lavender peaks mid-June to early July. Check bloom reports online before booking
- Rent a car from the Avignon TGV station — it is the best base for exploring the region
- Start your days early. The villages and natural sites are dramatically better before 10 AM
- Book the TGV trains in advance for the best fares. SNCF releases tickets about 4 months out
- Pack sunscreen and a hat. Provence in June is hot, and shade is scarce in the lavender fields
- The Calanques hike requires real hiking shoes, not sandals. The trail is rocky and steep
- For Paris, consider staying in Le Marais or the 11th arrondissement for a more local feel