Why New Zealand in November
November is early spring in New Zealand — the weather is warming up, the crowds have not arrived yet, and the landscapes are lush and green. We spent eight days split between Wellington and Auckland, connected by one of the most scenic train rides in the world. It was our first trip to the Southern Hemisphere and it exceeded every expectation.
Wellington
We flew into Wellington from Auckland after arriving on a red-eye from the US. Wellington is compact, walkable, and has the best food scene in New Zealand. We spent three nights here.
The Cable Car and Botanic Garden
The Wellington Cable Car is the city’s most iconic attraction. It takes you from Lambton Quay in the city center up to the Kelburn lookout with panoramic views of the harbor. At the top, walk through the Botanic Garden back down to the city — it takes about 45 minutes and is one of the best urban walks we have done anywhere.
Zealandia Night Tour
This was a highlight of the entire trip. Zealandia is a predator-free wildlife sanctuary in the middle of Wellington, and their night tour lets you see kiwi birds in the wild. Our guide used a red flashlight to spot them foraging in the undergrowth. Seeing a kiwi in its natural habitat is genuinely magical. Book well in advance — tours sell out.
Lord of the Rings Half-Day Tour
Wellington is where Peter Jackson filmed much of the Lord of the Rings and where Weta Workshop is based. We did a half-day tour that covered filming locations around the region and included a visit to the Weta Workshop. Even if you are not a huge LOTR fan, the scenery is stunning and the behind-the-scenes stories are fascinating.
Wellington Food
Wellington has more restaurants and cafes per capita than New York. Some highlights:
- Hiakai: Indigenous Maori-inspired fine dining using native ingredients. One of the most unique meals we have ever had
- Dragonfly: Excellent Asian fusion in a cozy space
- Ombra: Italian done right, with great pasta and wine
- WBC (Wellington Brewing Company): Good craft beer and casual food
- Matterhorn: Classic Wellington cocktail bar with a great atmosphere
The Northern Explorer Train
The Northern Explorer is a scenic train that runs between Wellington and Auckland. It takes about 11 hours and passes through some of New Zealand’s most dramatic landscapes — volcanic plateaus, river gorges, farmland, and the Raurimu Spiral, an engineering marvel where the track loops over itself to gain elevation.
The train has an open-air viewing car where you can stand outside and take in the scenery. It only runs three times a week, so plan your itinerary around it. We recommend the Wellington to Auckland direction for the best afternoon light on the volcanic section.
Tip: Check in at Counter 6 in the Wellington Station Ticket Office. Doors open at 7:15 AM and the train departs at 7:55 AM. Bring snacks — the onboard cafe is limited.
Auckland
Auckland is bigger and more spread out than Wellington. We spent four nights here and used it as a base for day trips.
The City
The Viaduct Harbour and Wynyard Quarter waterfront area is the best part of central Auckland. Good restaurants, a fish market, and views of the harbor bridge. The Sky Tower offers 360-degree views of the city and both harbors. Ponsonby Road has the best brunch spots and boutique shopping.
Waiheke Island
A 40-minute ferry from downtown Auckland, Waiheke Island is wine country meets beach paradise. We spent a full day here visiting three vineyards, eating lunch overlooking the water, and walking along Onetangi Beach. The island has a completely different pace from Auckland and is worth at least a full day.
Hobbiton
About two hours south of Auckland in Matamata. The movie set is preserved exactly as it appeared in the films — 44 hobbit holes built into the rolling green hills of a working sheep farm. The guided tour takes about two hours and ends at the Green Dragon Inn where you can try their exclusive ginger beer. Even non-fans find it charming. Book tickets well ahead as tours sell out weeks in advance.
Practical Tips
- NZeTA: US citizens need an NZeTA (electronic travel authority) — apply online before your trip, it takes a few days to process
- Cash: New Zealand is almost entirely cashless, but carry some NZD for small tips (tour guides appreciate $10 NZD)
- Transport: Uber works well in both cities. For day trips, rent a car or book organized tours
- Weather: November is spring, so pack layers. Wellington is notoriously windy. Auckland is warmer
- Flights: We flew Air New Zealand from LAX with a connection. The domestic flights between Auckland and Wellington are about an hour
What It Cost (Two People, 8 Nights)
- International flights: ~$1,400 round trip from NYC (via LAX)
- Domestic flight + train: ~$350
- Hotels: ~$1,600 total (mix of Marriott points and paid)
- Tours (Zealandia, LOTR, Hobbiton): ~$580
- Food and activities: ~$1,200 total
- Total for two: ~$5,130
Would We Go Back?
In a heartbeat. New Zealand is one of those places that lives up to the hype. The combination of dramatic landscapes, incredible food, friendly people, and unique wildlife makes it unlike anywhere else. We barely touched the South Island, which gives us the perfect reason to return.