Istanbul’s Asian Side: Why Kadikoy and Suadiye Are Worth the Ferry
Updated April 2026 | 4 min read
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Most visitors to Istanbul never cross the Bosphorus. They stay in Sultanahmet, walk to the Grand Bazaar, eat overpriced fish sandwiches near the Galata Bridge, and leave thinking they saw Istanbul. They saw half of it.
Taking the Ferry
The cheapest and best way to get to the Asian side is by ferry from Eminonu or Karakoy to Kadikoy. The ride takes about 20 minutes and costs 17.35 TRY (about $0.50 USD) with an Istanbulkart. Buy the Istanbulkart at any Metro station for 100 TRY ($3), it works on all public transport.
The ferry ride itself is worth doing even if you have no plans on the other side. Tea vendors walk through the cabin selling tulip-shaped glasses of cay for 10 TRY. The views of the Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, and the old city skyline from the water are better than any rooftop bar charges you for.
Kadikoy: The Neighborhood You Wish Your City Had
Kadikoy is what Brooklyn was 15 years ago. Creative, affordable, local-driven. The main market street (Kadikoy Carsisi) runs from the ferry terminal inland and it is packed with fishmongers, cheese shops, olive vendors, and produce stalls. This is where Istanbul locals actually shop.
Walk through the market and grab a midye dolma (stuffed mussels) from any street cart. A crossbody anti-theft bag is smart for the market crowds — your hands will be full of food and Kadikoy gets packed on weekends. They cost 5-10 TRY per piece ($0.15-0.30) and are served with a squeeze of lemon. We ate about 20 between the two of us before lunch even started.
For a proper meal, the side streets off the main market have excellent lokantasi (home-style restaurants). A full plate of stewed meat, rice, salad, and bread runs 150-250 TRY ($4.50-7.50). This is real Istanbul food, not the tourist-inflated prices near the Blue Mosque.
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Moda: Istanbul’s Boardwalk
From Kadikoy, walk south along the waterfront to Moda, a residential neighborhood with a long seaside promenade. The Moda coastal path wraps around the peninsula and gives you views back toward the European side. We walked 25,000+ steps every day on the Asian side, so proper walking shoes with cushioning matter — the cobblestones in Kadikoy will destroy anything flimsy. On weekends, families picnic on the grass, fishermen line the rocks, and the ice cream vendors set up every 50 meters.
There is a small sandy beach at Moda Koyu (Moda Cove) that fills up in summer. The water is surprisingly clean for a city of 16 million. We sat on the seawall with a simit (sesame bread ring, 15 TRY) and watched the container ships pass through the strait.
Suadiye and Bagdat Caddesi
Further south along the coast, Suadiye is Istanbul’s upscale Asian-side neighborhood. Bagdat Caddesi (Baghdad Avenue) is the main street, and it is lined with international brands, restaurants, and cafes. Think of it as Istanbul’s version of a European high street.
We stayed in Suadiye on our July 2024 trip. The beaches here are cleaner and less crowded than anything on the European side. Eskibag Beach on nearby Burgaz Island (a 40-minute ferry from Kadikoy) is even better. The Princes Islands are car-free, and in summer the only transportation is electric buses and bicycles.
For a day trip, take the ferry to Buyukada (the largest Princes Island). Walk up to the hilltop monastery, rent a bike, and eat fried fish at the harbor. The round trip takes about 5-6 hours.
Where to Eat on the Asian Side
The food is better and cheaper on the Asian side. That is not controversial among people who know Istanbul.
- Ciya Sofrasi (Kadikoy): The most famous restaurant on the Asian side. Run by a food researcher who collects recipes from across Anatolia. The rotating menu changes daily. A full meal with drinks costs 300-400 TRY ($9-12).
- Kadikoy Fish Market: Buy fresh fish at the market and have one of the adjacent restaurants cook it for you. They charge a small preparation fee (50-100 TRY). The fish is as fresh as it gets.
- Moda breakfast spots: Turkish breakfast (kahvalti) is an event, not a meal. Expect 15-20 small dishes of cheese, olives, honey, tomatoes, eggs, and bread. Cafes in Moda do the best versions for 200-350 TRY per person ($6-10).
- Balik ekmek stands along the Kadikoy waterfront. Grilled mackerel on bread with onions and lettuce. 80-100 TRY ($2.50-3). Better and cheaper than the famous boats at Eminonu.
Getting Around
The Istanbulkart works on ferries, Metro, trams, and buses. Most of the Asian side is walkable once you arrive in Kadikoy by ferry. For Suadiye and Bagdat Caddesi, take the Marmaray suburban rail from Ayrilikcesme station (one stop from Kadikoy).
Bring a portable charger — between ferry schedules, Google Maps, and the Istanbulkart app, your phone will die by 3pm. Uber works in Istanbul but drivers sometimes ask you to cancel and pay cash. This is normal. Taxi apps like BiTaksi are a more reliable alternative.
Why We Spent More Time Here Than the European Side
On our second trip to Istanbul (July 2024), we already knew the European side. Sultanahmet, the Bazaar, Istiklal Street, we had done all of it. The Asian side was the revelation. Better food, lower prices, friendlier locals, fewer tourists. Kadikoy felt like a real neighborhood, not a museum surrounded by restaurants trying to separate you from your money.
If you only have 3-4 days in Istanbul, spend at least one full day on the Asian side. Take the morning ferry, eat your way through the market, walk to Moda, and have dinner at Ciya. It will change how you think about the city.
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